VincentTechnicalSections:
BezelRemoval: Bezelremoval can be a real pistol. A lot of the old iron will exhibitvise grip damage, and even in extreme cases, chisel marks created bysomewell meaning and dedicated novice.
Erratic Speedo: Thisoften due just to the lubricant having dried up stiff or wornout. Remove the mechanism and place on a towel. Spray clean witharosolcontact cleaner being sure to flush away the old grease everywhereseen. Lightly blow dry. Spray with 3 & 1 oil orlightgun oil all moving parts, allow excess to drain, clean awayexcess. I've also simply applied a tiny drop of clock oil to every movingpart -- but the spray method is easier. Cleanthedial face plate etc., gently . re-assemble intocase. It pays to clean and regrease the small gearbox on the rear - I've had shards of metal in the two gears therecauseerratic flicking. Return to smooth operation by doingthis. The grease was ancient and more like tar. Sid11/29/07
This is the formula used for calibratingan Odometer and Speedometer to a vehicle.
I have used this little formula for manyyears and find it quite accurate, but I still like the ultimate testforspeedo accuracy by using a GPS.
Speedo Numbers: Atthe bottom of the speedo is a small number(1500 or 1000). I use thesenumbersto match the right wheel drive unit to the correct speedo. The1500goes with the drive unit marked 15/12 and the 1000 goes with the driveunit marked 2/1. The numbers represent the revolutions of the twogears inside the drive. Most of the speedos that run with the 2/1are 120mph and the 15/12 are 150 mph. Sharon 6/19/02Speedo Numbers: Ihave (3) 150 mph speedos, and they all have 1600 (not 1500) on them, Ialso have (3) 120 mph speedos, and they all have 1000 on them.Accordingto information I got from Jim Robb many years ago, that numberrepresentsthe rpm required at the input to make the speedometer read 60 mph. Thenumbers on my speedometers is consistent with the information thatSharonoffered except for the fact that they say 1600 on the 150 mph speedos.These things can be calibrated by moving the magnetic coupling inor out, and checked by using a power drill to spin the unit. My oldpowerdrill was tach'ed at about 1100 rpm, which was calculated to givesomewherearound 55 mph reading with a 120 mph speedometer. Carl Best 6/19/02An Electronic Tachometerfrom a magneto is a relatively simple instrument. The primarywindingin the magneto armature can be regarded as a low poweredgenerator. If you have one of the plastic end caps on the magneto of the type thathas an electrical pickup coming from it - on the inside of this cap isa carbon brush that rubs on the head of the captive bolt for the pointsblock - good reason for not having a screwdriver slot in the head ofthisbolt!
Original Smiths Speedometer Numbers:
1. The response to changing of speed is a bitslow
2. The GPS has difficulty indicating changesof direction
3. The GPS is still a power hungry device andcan chew through a set of batteries fairly quickly
Electrical Metering Devices:I doubt that an guage (meter) for a motorcycle would be a d'Arsonvalmovement. It is my opinion that they are too fragile for this application andthatin their 'natural' state of being the pointer oscillation would renderthem useless. Of course external damping could be implemented butthat involves additional cost. There is also the matter ofkeepingthe movement balanced which seems to be problematic in a laboratoryenvironment(this problem may be a result of curious but unknowing technicians,though)
He has some new faces as well for the unit (Imade them for him) Carl Hungness 05/06/01
Jerky Speedo Needle: First, remove cable now. No more operating the speedo until thisvery easy fix. This peculiar glitch is quite simple and onlyrequiresthat the speedo be cleaned and re-lubricated to function normally. Remove unit from its bracket atop the forks. Remove the screws that enter from the rear ofcase. Carefully, wearing a leather glove for grip, unscrew the chromebezel. If dead resistant to turning, dribble a bit of light oil (WD-40 or 3in1)into its threads, let sit face down for the oil to ooze down intothe threads. Retry to unscrew the bezel. The reset knob is secured to its shaft with a tiny
screw which must be removed. Ease the guts out of the case whilepressing knob shaft inward. Lay face down on a softclothbeing careful of the needle. Using a spray can of contact cleanerlike PJ-1, spray off all gears and everything that moves. Thisstep will remove the dried greasy lubricant applied with originalassembly. Spray around and in all sides. Your targets include all springs,clock-like bits, vibrating bars, etc. Be careful if theroundwheel numbers get soft and lose shape. Work quickly ! Witha controlled easy air blast - gentle now, dry off, blowingto evaporate the solvent everywhere. Obtain an
aerosol can of light gun oil or instrument oil, 3 in 1will do too. Spray lightly over all of the mechanismand moving parts. Turn over and wipe clean the face andneedleand number wheels. Leave draining on absorbant paper.Gently remove any loose droplets to be seen. Clean glassandface. Reassemble speedo as was before. Pull cableinnerwire out its open end and clean and oil. Refit asbefore. Regrease the lower drive box and barely grease the inner gear onhub. Sid Biberman 05/01/01. (seebelow)Jerky Speedo Needle-Amendment:I have just reassembled my 3' 150mph speedo, having serviced it as perBig Sid Bibermans' recommendations at http://www.thevincent.com. Allseemsto be well now. Just a note to amend Sid's process,however: When removing the drive mechanism from it's case, one has to push theodometerreset button inwards to clear the case. This clearance is muchmoreeasily facilitated if one removes or loosens the two faceplate screwsonthe reset button side of the face. This allows the shaft to bepushedfurther into the case as it's mating parts can move further than whentheface is locked solid, the face offering a resistance point to theupwardtravel of some of the bits. Glenn Bewley 7/23/02Tachometer Drive Gearbox:
Speedograph Richfield
Rolleston Drive,
Arnold,
Nottingham NG5 7JR
England
www.speedographrichfield.com
Int+44 602 264235
Original Smiths 5 inch dia 150 mphspeedo S515/L
5inch dia 240 kph speedo S515K/L
SeriesD 3 inch 150 mph S576/L
SeriesC 3 inch 120 mph S433/3/L
SeriesC 3 inch 180 kph S433/7/L P.Bickerstaff via Arthur Farrow 10/27/00
Cable Breakage with ShadowSpeedos: The problem is in the gear box. There are 2 types. The early orginalwasprone
to seizing. Sometimes you can disassemble it and grease it. There isan upgrade that was used on Smith's automobile instruments. If there isa threaded boss, the new one can be installed. The problem is that thenew ones are hard to find. Domi-Racer use to have them, but they soldout.You can bug car guys for them. You can also get a longer cable and runit out the back of the speedo.It looks like crap but how else are yougoingto substaniate all of those ton-up stories? Somer 8/27/00
Shadow Speedo Gearbox: The Land Rover ones which can I gather be used look horrid. ClevTrev makes the gears to fix up the correct Vincent type. SpeedographRichfieldin Nottingham, England have all the Smiths and Auto Tempo stock
and can sort you out for most things. The speedo drivebox isan often neglected item should be lubricated every so often, like5,000 miles. I was forever breaking cables till I did it right. Arthur 9/27/00
Every
Speedo
return to thevincent.com
SMITHS Classic Chronometric Speedometer Range. Smiths Classic chronometric 82mm (3in) units. Speedometer features billet case and waterproof to IP67, drive to set programming. Available in 120MPH, and 190 KMH variants. Part Number for pictured RES3-1B52-01C. 220 KMH Variant RES3-1B52-10C. 190 KMH Variant RES3-1B52-05C. The speedo combines a time movement, like a clock, and a distance movement. Chronometric is the Most problems arise from over oiling / greasing of the drive cable which works its way into the instrument and prevents proper movement of the parts. Repairing Jaeger & Smiths Speedometers - Free download as PDF File (.pdf), Text File. And the speedometer serial number and the make/year of your car. Dragonfly Smiths Chronometric Speedo WARNING. Our lovely Smiths chronometric speedometer was sent away to London Instruments (London SE20 8RY) for a service/overhaul before being fitted back into. Smiths Chronometric Speedo Number Question. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 3 of 3 Posts. Loctitekid Registered. Joined May 26, 2010 847 Posts. Discussion Starter.
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Garmin mapsource software 6.13 7 free.
Chronometric restoration:Garmin mapsource software 6.13 7 free.
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Speedo/Smiths_Speedo_restoration.pdf
http://velobanjogent.blogspot.com/2008/03/smiths-chronometric-speedometer-and_21.html
http://velobanjogent.blogspot.com/2008/03/smiths-chronometric-speedometer-and_21.html
ernie lowinger 3/18/10
Smiths Vincent Instrumentsinfo: http://velobanjogent.blogspot.com/BezelRemoval: Bezelremoval can be a real pistol. A lot of the old iron will exhibitvise grip damage, and even in extreme cases, chisel marks created bysomewell meaning and dedicated novice.
The objective is to remove the bezel withoutdistortingor destroying the beauty chrome. The bezels on most speedos andtachsare quite thin, and usually made of brass. Brass plates well,requiringno copper, so the bezels are normally nickel plated, then beautychromed.
The best way to remove the bezel withoutdamagetakes a couple of days. The first day is consumed with the bezelin a penetrant soak. Fill a sauce pan about 1' deep with a goodpenetrant,then place the instrument face down in the penetrant. After aboutsix hours remove the instrument, and with a razor blade, try to removethe gasket between the bezel lip and the instrument face glass. Thegaskets are usually rubber or paper. The purpose of removing thegasket is to allow passage of the penetrant to the threads in theoppositedirection from the external soak. Replace the instrument in thepenetrantbath and wait until morning.
Remove and dry the instrument. Wrap theouter circumference of the bezel three times with 1/2' maskingtape. With a rawhide mallet you can now tap lightly around the circumferenceof the bezel. As the brass bezel is thin and relatively soft, therawhide's light blow easily disturbs the female and male threads, andloosensany corrosion grip. Don't tap on the bezel's glass flange,especially with the gasket removed. It only takes a slightlyenthusiasticblow with a mallet to cause the bezel to jump thread, thereby causing across threading of the bezel. The masking tape protects thebeautychrome from damage. Any blow on the bezel without this protectionwill inevitably cause chrome luster loss due to abrasion.
The next step is to mount the instrumentsecurelyso the bezel can be removed. The Shadow speedo can easily bemountedin a vise with the mounting plate still attached. The Rapidespeedocan be mounted as well in a vise, leaving the mounting plate attached.
The trouble with a strap wrench is that thecamaction required to tighten causes a hard pressure point on thecircumferenceof the bezel at the point of the cam action. The best method istomodify a ring compressor. This would be the type that has aratchetband around an expandable, contractible, metal cylinder. Themodificationis to shorten the ring compressor to the tightening ratchet band.
With the protective masking tape still inplaceyou can proceed. The masking tape serves two purposes, itprovidesa high friction coefficient surface and protection to the beautychrome. Place the ring compressor over the bezel, lining up the bottom of thebezelwith the bottom of the ring compressor ratchet tightening band. Nowtighten the ring compressor. The ratchet portion of the ringcompressorprotrudes out about a half an inch, and provides a surface that can betapped on with a rawhide mallet. The tapping acts like an impactwrench, and breaks the bezel loose with ease. If the bezel turnswith difficulty it's usually because you have the ring compressor tootight. Loosen, and the bezel can be removed with no problem, and if you usethismethod zero damage will be incurred.
Max Lambky 2/21/10
Max has written a whole series of restorationarticles posted in the Misc. Tech Section. Well worth reading.
Good article onchronometricSpeedometers:MPH 653, June 2003. 10/31/08Max has written a whole series of restorationarticles posted in the Misc. Tech Section. Well worth reading.
Erratic Speedo: Thisoften due just to the lubricant having dried up stiff or wornout. Remove the mechanism and place on a towel. Spray clean witharosolcontact cleaner being sure to flush away the old grease everywhereseen. Lightly blow dry. Spray with 3 & 1 oil orlightgun oil all moving parts, allow excess to drain, clean awayexcess. I've also simply applied a tiny drop of clock oil to every movingpart -- but the spray method is easier. Cleanthedial face plate etc., gently . re-assemble intocase. It pays to clean and regrease the small gearbox on the rear - I've had shards of metal in the two gears therecauseerratic flicking. Return to smooth operation by doingthis. The grease was ancient and more like tar. Sid11/29/07
This is the formula used for calibratingan Odometer and Speedometer to a vehicle.
I have used this little formula for manyyears and find it quite accurate, but I still like the ultimate testforspeedo accuracy by using a GPS.
1680xN Divide by R = T.P.M. No
Were N= Number of turns of the inner shaft ofthe speedo cable for 6 turns of the wheel that drives the cable and R=the radius of the wheel in inches measured from the centre of the hubtothe ground. Example - Cardboard pointer on inner shaft rotates 121/2 turns as vehicle is pushed forward 6 turns of rear wheel - I saypushedforward so as to illustrate the need to allow for the differentialgearingin a car - a chalk mark on the tyre helps here also. Grandchildrencan help count the rotations of the cardboard pointer - or do thepushing!
Wheel radius is 13'
Flex turns per mile =
1680 x 12.5 divide by 13 = 1616 T.P.M.
For a metric - kilometer - speedo substitute1680 for 2653 and measure wheel radius in centimeters
Flex turns per mile =
1680 x 12.5 divide by 13 = 1616 T.P.M.
For a metric - kilometer - speedo substitute1680 for 2653 and measure wheel radius in centimeters
Example 2653 x 12.5 divide by 33 = 1005T.P.K. The TPM or TPK figure is on a lot of dials but not all.
Andrew Rackstraw 10/25/02
8 Day Clocks:Pre-war clocks had Roman numerals & post war clocks have Arabic.AlynVincent 6/23/02Andrew Rackstraw 10/25/02
Speedo Numbers: Atthe bottom of the speedo is a small number(1500 or 1000). I use thesenumbersto match the right wheel drive unit to the correct speedo. The1500goes with the drive unit marked 15/12 and the 1000 goes with the driveunit marked 2/1. The numbers represent the revolutions of the twogears inside the drive. Most of the speedos that run with the 2/1are 120mph and the 15/12 are 150 mph. Sharon 6/19/02Speedo Numbers: Ihave (3) 150 mph speedos, and they all have 1600 (not 1500) on them, Ialso have (3) 120 mph speedos, and they all have 1000 on them.Accordingto information I got from Jim Robb many years ago, that numberrepresentsthe rpm required at the input to make the speedometer read 60 mph. Thenumbers on my speedometers is consistent with the information thatSharonoffered except for the fact that they say 1600 on the 150 mph speedos.These things can be calibrated by moving the magnetic coupling inor out, and checked by using a power drill to spin the unit. My oldpowerdrill was tach'ed at about 1100 rpm, which was calculated to givesomewherearound 55 mph reading with a 120 mph speedometer. Carl Best 6/19/02An Electronic Tachometerfrom a magneto is a relatively simple instrument. The primarywindingin the magneto armature can be regarded as a low poweredgenerator. If you have one of the plastic end caps on the magneto of the type thathas an electrical pickup coming from it - on the inside of this cap isa carbon brush that rubs on the head of the captive bolt for the pointsblock - good reason for not having a screwdriver slot in the head ofthisbolt!
This type of end cap is normally connected to a kill switch -mountedup on the handle bar - the kill switch is used to short the centre ofthearmature to earth and thus kill the engine - horrid things and notrecommended- the switch will inevitably goes wrong and is guaranteed to give you asore right leg. Vincent's are supposed to be switched off by holdingthevalve lifter open when the engine is at idle speed. If you weretoconnect a multimeter - select AC Volts - to this pickup and the body ofthe magneto you would be able to record a voltage that is directlyproportionalto the speed of the magneto. Unfortunately the voltage is inAlternatingCurrant - AC - form and will require a full wave rectifier so that astandardDirect Currant - DC - voltmeter can be used.
Select a suitable rugged vibration resistant voltmeter. It isnow possible to paint a dial to indicate Revolutions Per Minute - notanunderground political organisation! - to fit thevoltmeter. Andrew Rackstraw 2/20/02
Mick Hemmings, 72/72 Overstone road, Northampton,England,UK NN1 3JS Phone: (44+) 01604 638505 or FAX: (44+) 01604631838.Mick supposedly offers an electronictachometerto replace original Smith tachs: 'suitable for most magneto, coil orelectronicignition systems.' 2/20/02Original Smiths Speedometer Numbers:
5 inch dia 150 mphspeedo S515/L
5 inch dia 240 kphspeedo S515K/L
Series D 3 inch 150mph S576/L
Series D 3 inch 240kph S 576K/L
Series C 3 inch 120mph S433/3/L
Series C 3 inch 180kph S433/7/L
5 inch dia 240 kphspeedo S515K/L
Series D 3 inch 150mph S576/L
Series D 3 inch 240kph S 576K/L
Series C 3 inch 120mph S433/3/L
Series C 3 inch 180kph S433/7/L
Doug Wood 11/24/01
SpeedometerCalibrationusing GPS: The modern navigational aidthe 'GPS' is now readily available and now that the satellites are notgiving us a corrupted signal they can indicate our speed much moreaccuratelythan any speedometer on our vehicle ever did. There are draw backs tothismethod of measurement though:1. The response to changing of speed is a bitslow
2. The GPS has difficulty indicating changesof direction
3. The GPS is still a power hungry device andcan chew through a set of batteries fairly quickly
Free urdu inpage 2016. If you want to calibrate your speedo using oneof these GPS's:
1. Mount the instrument so that it is as nearhorizontal for the built in antenna to pick up the satellite signal
2. Insert a fresh set of batteries in theinstrument
3. When measuring your speed try to travel ina straight line
4. Measure your speed only when travelling ata constant speed
5. Don't do anything dangerous and then blameme because I presume you are smart enough not to mount the GPS so that
its difficult to see and not try reading it indangerous traffic situations.
1. Mount the instrument so that it is as nearhorizontal for the built in antenna to pick up the satellite signal
2. Insert a fresh set of batteries in theinstrument
3. When measuring your speed try to travel ina straight line
4. Measure your speed only when travelling ata constant speed
5. Don't do anything dangerous and then blameme because I presume you are smart enough not to mount the GPS so that
its difficult to see and not try reading it indangerous traffic situations.
You can now compare the two speeds - the GPSspeedis deadly accurate and can be regarded as a standard.
Andrew Rackstraw 06/15/01
SpeedometerDisassemblyand Cleaning: Smith's assembled the speedo in a set way andif you try assembling it any other way it becomes extremely frustratingso first lets go through the Smiths way then I will tell you analternative!Andrew Rackstraw 06/15/01
Smiths assembled the instrument movement into the case - tested it -made any adjustment for calibration then fitted the dial and theneedle.If you should want to try this method the biggest obstacle is to -removingthe needle without damaging the dial or
the needle. The easiest method to accomplish this is to placea 3/16' wide flat bladed screwdriver under the dial - place it
between the brass top plate of the chronometric movement and twistthe blade in such a way that the side of the blade closest to theneedleshaft is forced up against the dial - Oh! - remove the 4 dial screwsfirstwon't you ?
the needle. The easiest method to accomplish this is to placea 3/16' wide flat bladed screwdriver under the dial - place it
between the brass top plate of the chronometric movement and twistthe blade in such a way that the side of the blade closest to theneedleshaft is forced up against the dial - Oh! - remove the 4 dial screwsfirstwon't you ?
The needle will shoot across the room scare the cat and be lostforeverso don't forget to put your finger on the needle to prevent 'felineagro'now you can replace the movement into the case and apply pressure tothereset shaft from inside the case in order to replace the 12 BA screw -the head of which should be flush with the reset knob sleeve - topreventthe screw head gouging out the alloy of the case in that area
Please be careful with this reset shaft - none of the other modelsofthis type - i.e. 3' - have a tapped hole for the tiny screw - they arejust plane holes for the tiny split pin and all shafts arehardened - easily and often broken. Now that you have all that done thenexttrick is to clean up the dial with an old tea towel and spit - yes thatright - and clean with a circular movements abought florin size circlestill the towel removes no more filth and all the numbers are nice andwhite- STOP immediately if you
start removing numbers - which can happen with poorly painted dialsand the paint has oxidised - test in an unimportant area first - if atthis stage you are tempted to have a go at cleaning the odometer wheelsbe careful because you will move the wheels very easily and lose youroriginalmileage they will move in one direction only - back to zero to move nomore - you also run the risk of bending the comb spring under theodometerwheels.
start removing numbers - which can happen with poorly painted dialsand the paint has oxidised - test in an unimportant area first - if atthis stage you are tempted to have a go at cleaning the odometer wheelsbe careful because you will move the wheels very easily and lose youroriginalmileage they will move in one direction only - back to zero to move nomore - you also run the risk of bending the comb spring under theodometerwheels.
Now replace your dial - the right way up - and the 4 tiny UNC screwsthat hold the dial in place - replace the needle on its shaft verylightly- now turn the drive shaft with a bit of old speedo inner cable in thedirection it is turned by the front wheel - anti clock - twist thecablebetween your fingers fast enough for the needle to advance a smallamount- now twist the cable
nice and slow till the needle moves back - gently pull the needle fromits shaft and replace it lightly so that it is now pointing to 10 mphon5' Black Shadow speedo's and 5 mph on 3' speedo's - repeat thistesttill you are absolutely sure you have the needle in its proper placenowgive the centre a firm tap with the plastic handle of your 3/16'screwdriverthis will secure the needle on its taper nice and tight. Peersideways across the dial to make sure the point of the needle will notfoul the dial screws - if in doubt tweak the needle very gently awayfromthe dial - it is only soft alloy so be careful.
nice and slow till the needle moves back - gently pull the needle fromits shaft and replace it lightly so that it is now pointing to 10 mphon5' Black Shadow speedo's and 5 mph on 3' speedo's - repeat thistesttill you are absolutely sure you have the needle in its proper placenowgive the centre a firm tap with the plastic handle of your 3/16'screwdriverthis will secure the needle on its taper nice and tight. Peersideways across the dial to make sure the point of the needle will notfoul the dial screws - if in doubt tweak the needle very gently awayfromthe dial - it is only soft alloy so be careful.
As a nice finishing touch you could try painting the needle with asharpenedmatchstick and some enamel paint - I like the Humbrol paint gloss white- use the smallest quantity working from the centre outwards paintbeforeassembly - best!
Now for the unofficial method - Pull the reset shaft out of thespeedocase hold it in this extended position with a sharpened screwdriverbladewhilst at the same time placing the reset knob on the shaft and placingthe 12 BA screw into place with a pair of pointed tweezers and once inplace - tighten up the 12 BA screw - test and hope to hell it all workscos if doesn't you will have to revert to the first method and putthingsright under the dial. Andrew Rackstraw 05/05/01
There are some interestingpoints regarding the voltmeter and ammeterand our beloved old Vincent's. A voltmeter when wired into avehicleis connected to the battery when the ignition is switched on - this isa problem for us with no ignition switch - we could simply put a switchin circuit but then we are mere mortals and would soon forget to turnour'voltmeter' switch off and the battery would have a drain on it and goflat over night - it could also heat up the voltmeter and set fire tosomething! This problem could be overcome by connecting some sort of relayoperatedfrom some other source but then things start to get overly complicatedfrom the essentially simple system we have as standard.The ammeter is an indicator of the state ofourbattery and consumes no power! By reading the amount of chargegoinginto the battery we can interpret this into the state of the batteryandbecause the ammeter is wired via the voltage regulator it isautomaticallyswitched off when the engine stops - an ammeter is in series with thecircuitand a voltmeter is in parallel with the battery.
There are a couple of types of voltmeter outtherethe most common is a meter that has a scale ranging from 8 to 16 volts- this is quite difficult to achieve with a moving coil type of meter -the advantage is that there is a large movement of the needle over therange we are interested in - if there wasn't a large movement we wouldnot be able to see the critical voltage we are interested in - like13.8volts - unless we had a very big instrument - the reason for a 5'speedofor 150 mph dials. The most common type of instrument is one thatworks on a bi metallic strip principle - the strip is heated by a verysmall winding wrapped round it and depending on the state of thebatteryis the amount of heat generated and the amount of deflection of thestripand now this moves the needle pivoted at the end of the strip.
This type of instrument is quite cheap and canbe found in temperature - fuel - and voltage gauges - on any cardashboard- I can not vouch for their ruggedness and suspect that the vibrationfromthe old bike would soon wreck an instrument of this nature - I amalwaysamazed at some people attempting to mount delicate clock movements tothevibrating handlebars of their bikes - I digress!!
There are some rather neat solid statevoltmetersthat indicate battery voltage by changing LED colours depending onvoltage- very very small currant drain and remarkably accurate - this solidstatedevice is used to switch the charger on and off on your cell phone -toomodern for our old bike. There are other types of voltmeter outtherebut none of them are simple. Perhaps they knew what they weredoingand the kiss principle is best after all. Andrew Rackstraw 05/28/01
Electrical Metering Devices:I doubt that an guage (meter) for a motorcycle would be a d'Arsonvalmovement. It is my opinion that they are too fragile for this application andthatin their 'natural' state of being the pointer oscillation would renderthem useless. Of course external damping could be implemented butthat involves additional cost. There is also the matter ofkeepingthe movement balanced which seems to be problematic in a laboratoryenvironment(this problem may be a result of curious but unknowing technicians,though)
In my experience most indicator (a.k.a.'idiot')lights activate on battery discharge not on low voltage. Extendingthis concept to an ammeter versus a voltmeter one might get an earlierwarning that something is amiss. In other words a warning thatyourbattery is discharging, not that it has already discharged. Doug Wood 05/29/01
Instrument Repair: Nisongerat 570 Mamaroneck, Mamaroneck, NY l0543.attn: Bob Castagnetta ,Phone 9l4 38l-l952He has some new faces as well for the unit (Imade them for him) Carl Hungness 05/06/01
Jerky Speedo Needle: First, remove cable now. No more operating the speedo until thisvery easy fix. This peculiar glitch is quite simple and onlyrequiresthat the speedo be cleaned and re-lubricated to function normally. Remove unit from its bracket atop the forks. Remove the screws that enter from the rear ofcase. Carefully, wearing a leather glove for grip, unscrew the chromebezel. If dead resistant to turning, dribble a bit of light oil (WD-40 or 3in1)into its threads, let sit face down for the oil to ooze down intothe threads. Retry to unscrew the bezel. The reset knob is secured to its shaft with a tiny
screw which must be removed. Ease the guts out of the case whilepressing knob shaft inward. Lay face down on a softclothbeing careful of the needle. Using a spray can of contact cleanerlike PJ-1, spray off all gears and everything that moves. Thisstep will remove the dried greasy lubricant applied with originalassembly. Spray around and in all sides. Your targets include all springs,clock-like bits, vibrating bars, etc. Be careful if theroundwheel numbers get soft and lose shape. Work quickly ! Witha controlled easy air blast - gentle now, dry off, blowingto evaporate the solvent everywhere. Obtain an
aerosol can of light gun oil or instrument oil, 3 in 1will do too. Spray lightly over all of the mechanismand moving parts. Turn over and wipe clean the face andneedleand number wheels. Leave draining on absorbant paper.Gently remove any loose droplets to be seen. Clean glassandface. Reassemble speedo as was before. Pull cableinnerwire out its open end and clean and oil. Refit asbefore. Regrease the lower drive box and barely grease the inner gear onhub. Sid Biberman 05/01/01. (seebelow)Jerky Speedo Needle-Amendment:I have just reassembled my 3' 150mph speedo, having serviced it as perBig Sid Bibermans' recommendations at http://www.thevincent.com. Allseemsto be well now. Just a note to amend Sid's process,however: When removing the drive mechanism from it's case, one has to push theodometerreset button inwards to clear the case. This clearance is muchmoreeasily facilitated if one removes or loosens the two faceplate screwsonthe reset button side of the face. This allows the shaft to bepushedfurther into the case as it's mating parts can move further than whentheface is locked solid, the face offering a resistance point to theupwardtravel of some of the bits. Glenn Bewley 7/23/02Tachometer Drive Gearbox:
Speedograph Richfield
Rolleston Drive,
Arnold,
Nottingham NG5 7JR
England
www.speedographrichfield.com
Int+44 602 264235
They make a drive unit both clockwise and anticlockwise not exact copy but close and it stays working cost 3 yearsagoaprox Stg£50.00 others were looking £90.00 for itSpeedographactually manufacture them. Henry Martini
The speedometer drivetube was never used on post warmodels.The 'A' speedo tube it's 'king wierd and rather silly, and has noadvantageover the proper cables that I can see. Infact the pre-war speedos use aJaeger fitting (not a screw) which is a plain output (male) spindlewitha cross drilling through it. The corresponding female part is attachedto and part of the inner and its 'head' is a turned component with acrossdrilling through which one passes a split pin. This pin of course goesthrough the male item as well . The brake end is what you would callstandard. Arthur Farrow 02/27/01Speedometers: Thenumberson the face of Speedo's are the model number and the variant ofthat model ('L') there seems to be no convention or logic in thesymbolsused and this is fairly typical of Smiths, the variations are forthingslike shape of the bezel, light or no light, the position of the re-setfor trip mileage or even no trip mileage recorder supplied.The early 5' speedo (and Sunbeam 3' Speedo's) had a problem withrightangle gear box - they were prone to seize when the bike was wheeledbackwards- I some times wonder just how many did actually have this problem -thesecond version (MkII) of this speedo had a different gear box thatrequireda larger recess in the 5' case for its different shape, so it isdifficultto
modify early Speedo's and so there would still be a number of the earlySpeedo's still out there. The MkII also had a different frame for thegutsof the instrument but exactly the same gears in the gear box! Iamat a loss to know how this actually solved the problem.
modify early Speedo's and so there would still be a number of the earlySpeedo's still out there. The MkII also had a different frame for thegutsof the instrument but exactly the same gears in the gear box! Iamat a loss to know how this actually solved the problem.
When I have a 5' for repair and I have no spares, I modify thespeedoby changing the frame and converting the speedo to straight drive andthenfit an after market gearbox made by Smiths for some Rover 2000 cars andexport Austin/Morris 1100 /1300 cars (with the steering wheel on thewrongside!) stamped with the number BG2410/00 on the plate, this plate holdsthe knurled nut in place - remove the two tabs off this plate so thatitwill fit into the recess on the 5' casting - and finish the job bygivingit a coat of black paint this somehow seems to disguise its ugliness.Thisis also the gear box/speedo combination used by the manufacturers likeAutotempo when making 5' Speedo's.
There is no doubt the 5' 150mph instrument is an impressive lookinginstrument and no wonder they are fitted to so many models by theirownersthey should have been made to lie down a little and had a gearbox of alesser angle giving a straighter line for the cable to that otherpoorlymade gear box on the front wheel.
The trouble with the original gears is that they are too small forthejob and should have been made twice as big at least - observe the sameangle gear box on the back of Japanese Speedo's - much better andgivingno problems - the after market Smiths gearbox is expensive and alsopoorlymade and prone to failure (and I can say anything I like after 46 yearsof
Instrument Work!) the gears are made from a type 6 nylon and shouldbe lubricated with a synthetic grease like Silicone, the original steelgears should be oiled with a high pressure (HP) gearbox oil.
Instrument Work!) the gears are made from a type 6 nylon and shouldbe lubricated with a synthetic grease like Silicone, the original steelgears should be oiled with a high pressure (HP) gearbox oil.
The chronometric movement is the same in all chronometric Speedo's.They are fitted with different size gears for correct ratios on theodometer.The speedo part if the instrument (the chronometric movement) can befittedwith different Commander Pinion sizes and Weighted Escape Wheels fordifferentTurns Per Mile ('TPM' on the dial of some Speedo's) so that theycan be calibrated for 80 or 120 or 150 mph or kilometres ('TPK') or whatevertakes your fancy. I have seen the same movement fitted to printingpressesand hour meters. It should be over lubricated with engineoilnot instrument oil. Never let it get dry and it will last manyyearsif well oiled.
Chronometeric revolution counter's have a more substantial movementwith larger pinions and different shaped brass plates and strongmountingmethod in order to withstand the vibration of a racer, therefore it isquite acceptable to use a lighter speedo movement in a non-vibrator asa rev counter.
Chronometric movements (with heavy hair springs) were developed toovercomethe problem of vibration breaking the hair springs (of necessity lightweight) on car type magnetic movements when used on bikes and were anexpensiveoption in days of yore.
When I have a new batch of dial printed (silk screen) I never botherto print the model number on the dial. This way my customers don't getconfused and I can use the same dial on the many models and theirvariantsand it's a tidy looking job.
German speedos are not necessarily very well made, the worst arefromFrance or Italy and American electronic speedo's on modern Harleys arejustbrilliant. AndrewRackstraw 11/03/00
Vincent MotorcycleSpeedometer Identification CodesOriginal Smiths 5 inch dia 150 mphspeedo S515/L
5inch dia 240 kph speedo S515K/L
SeriesD 3 inch 150 mph S576/L
Smiths Chronometric Speedometer Serial Numbers Calculator
SeriesD 3 inch 240 kph S 576K/LSeriesC 3 inch 120 mph S433/3/L
SeriesC 3 inch 180 kph S433/7/L P.Bickerstaff via Arthur Farrow 10/27/00
Cable Breakage with ShadowSpeedos: The problem is in the gear box. There are 2 types. The early orginalwasprone
to seizing. Sometimes you can disassemble it and grease it. There isan upgrade that was used on Smith's automobile instruments. If there isa threaded boss, the new one can be installed. The problem is that thenew ones are hard to find. Domi-Racer use to have them, but they soldout.You can bug car guys for them. You can also get a longer cable and runit out the back of the speedo.It looks like crap but how else are yougoingto substaniate all of those ton-up stories? Somer 8/27/00
Shadow Speedo Gearbox: The Land Rover ones which can I gather be used look horrid. ClevTrev makes the gears to fix up the correct Vincent type. SpeedographRichfieldin Nottingham, England have all the Smiths and Auto Tempo stock
and can sort you out for most things. The speedo drivebox isan often neglected item should be lubricated every so often, like5,000 miles. I was forever breaking cables till I did it right. Arthur 9/27/00
Every
Smiths Chronometric Speedometer Serial Numbers Diagram
screw inyoursmiths speedometer and the gearbox on the back of a Shadow clock isMetric. Trevor 7/18/00The two screws are a very unusual metric thread 0.75pitchx 4.8mm diameter, they do not conform to any thread table I have.But help is at hand by shear coincidence the American wire gaugethread10 x 32 UNF will screw right in, it is - in metric 0.78 pitch x 4.83mmdiameter - make sure the thread is no longer than the original or thereis a danger of the end of the screw foaling the movement the length ofthread under the head is 9mm or 0.355in and the washer was a starwasher40 thou thick
Andrew Rackstraw 7/18/00
Tach/Speedo Chronometric repairsSmiths Chronometric Speedometer Serial Numbers Lookup
: nisonger.com ph: 914-381-1952 570 Mamaroneck, New Jersey, USA 10543Speedo
Smiths Chronometric Speedometer Serial Numbers Chart
: I've used a nylongear for years with no ill effects. As to the g/box I've been lucky tohave been able to keep rebuilding it from bits of old ones found atjumbles,watch out as they come in left and right hand versions. Theredoesseem to be sufficient room to bush the input side, though.Again I've had a Rover type drive on the back of the Shadow speedoforever as mine is a replica 5' clock, no problems if the lower box andcableare well lubricated. The Nilos rings are good stuff as well, they don'tbreak up and grease you shoes.
Smiths Chronometric Speedometer Serial Numbers List
Ian Savage 4/04/00
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